BACKGROUND

Due to its specific earthy and woody notes (sandal and cedar), vetiver essential oil and derivatives are important perfume ingredients (i.e. 60 tons per year) that can be found in over 350 fragrances.

Until now, vetiveryl acetate was a mixture of products resulting from direct acetylation of crude vetiver oil with acetic anhydride.

The regulation and the market demand encourage the development of natural perfume ingredients. However, no natural vetiveryl acetate was available on the market until the outcome of this biotechnological process.

HOW IT WORKS

A French leader in green and sustainable chemistry developed a new enzymatic process for the production of high-quality natural vetiveryl acetate.

The process relies on the reaction between essential vetiver oil and a natural acylating compound with a specific enzyme that can be supported.

The vetiveryl acetate obtained with this ecologically and sustainable process is completely new and 100% natural and could be EcoCert compliant.

DEVELOPMENT STATUS

Completed chemical characterization (i.e. signature) of the vetiveryl acetate depending on the origin of the essential vetiver oils and the degree of acylation

Completed optimization of the process: determination of the best enzyme, solvent, concentration, reaction time…

Ongoing fragrance evaluation

APPLICATIONS

Perfumery (fine fragrance)

Cosmetics