Lichen derivative for cosmetic and dermatologic uses


12 Juillet 2019

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Biology / Medical



Lichens are evolutionary conserved symbiotic organisms of fungi and algae. These poorly studied organisms develop and survive under harsh climate including UV-exposure. Lichens present various colours: white, black red according to the species and metabolite localizations. Researchers made the hypothesis that lichens may produce original compounds that may modulate pigmentation.

Extract from the lichen, Cetraria islandica was proved to modulate pigmentation. One active molecule has been identified to down regulate pigmentation. It is a unique lichen structure : aliphatic lactone.

This aliphatic lactone can be synthetized in 7 steps. Starting from this active compound, derived molecules have been synthetized in an enantioselective manner. Two of them induce higher depigmentation. These tests have been performed using pigmented cell lines (MNT1, B16) and cultured human skin explants (Nativskin® ).
No toxicity have been detected

Depigmentation effect was higher than the one induced by control molecules (hydroquinone, arbutin) with a 20% reduction of the melanin content.
Electronic microscopy imaging demonstrate that the molecule acts on melanosomes, the melanin producing organelle. Structure/function analysis predicts that this molecule may interact with a melanosomal receptor.

Ses bénéfices

- Natural derivative
- Better activity than hydroquinone (reference molecule)
- No toxicity
- IC50 = 1 microM
- Chemical synthesis of the compound: 7 steps (3 weeks)
- Possible biotechnological production

Ses applications
- Health market: Melasma, Vitiligo (softening the colour contrast)
- Cosmetic market: Skin lightening cream, skin discoloration

Stade de développement
IN VIVO - Preuve de concept

Laboratoire de recherche
UMR 6290 - IGDR

Équipe de recherche
Equipe Expression des Gènes et Oncogenèse (GEO)

Propriété intellectuelle associée
FR : FR1253585 - filed on the 04-18-2012

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